Cauldron

Issue date: 4/2/07 Section: A & E

Media Credit: Sarah Clarke There is something fishy about a sushi buffet, but Todai (above) is one of several quality options.

I admit, the idea of raw fish on a buffet is less than appetizing, but believe it or not, there are at least two that do it right. The key is small batches and fast turnover. The draw is huge selection and reasonable prices (reasonable for sushi anyway).

Three of the most popular (and legitimate) restaurants with all-you-can-eat options are Kirin Sushi, Todai and Miyako.

Kirin Sushi
The atmosphere in this restaurant is slightly odd. In addition to the ubiquitous fish tank, there is a large mural of an underwater landscape. This mural is, perhaps ironically, on the wall above the buffet. This means, of course, that paintings of happy fish are "swimming" right above the plates of spicy tuna, salmon rolls and crab legs that are waiting to be consumed. Displaying ornamental fish in a sushi restaurant is ironic, but Kirin's decor is ridiculous.

Its food, however, is not. The all-you-can-eat buffet includes approximately 30 different kinds of sushi. They are put out in small batches (about 10 to 15 pieces of each kind) and as a result, the turnover rate is quite good. The dinner buffet also includes snow crab legs, boiled shrimp and unagi (smoked eel).

The service is quite friendly and the atmosphere is warm, relaxed and inviting. Besides, they have what I consider to be the best spicy tuna in town.

Todai
This is the grand-daddy of all sushi buffets. In fact, I am tempted to call it the grand-daddy of buffets in general. The selection is ridiculously large. In addition to approximately 50 different kinds of sushi, the dinner buffet includes sashimi, king crab legs, oysters, dumplings, unagi and a salad bar that, in addition to lettuce, tomatoes, olives and cheese, offers edamame and seaweed salad.

But that is only the "cold foods" side of the buffet. On the "hot foods" side, there is Korean barbecue, teriyaki, grilled shrimp and grilled eel, to name a few of the approximately 20 different foods.

In addition, there is a noodle section, which makes various noodle soups. There is also a dessert aisle with assortments of mini-desserts ranging from crème-brulées and cheesecakes to crêpes and cookies.

The traditional sushi restaurant ambiance is notably lacking. The ceilings are high, the décor industrial and the music modern. It has a distinctly family-friendly vibe, with deals for kids under specific heights.

The restaurant is always busy which, in a sushi buffet, is an excellent recommendation. The sushi goes quickly and a team of chefs behind the glass counter makes replacements as you watch. Most of people who go there are Asian, a testament to the food's authenticity.

Todai is my favorite in terms of plain old selection. It is also a great place to go with a group.

Miyako
I strongly encourage everyone to try out the buffets, but for those who still are not convinced, Miyako is an excellent alternative. Its Sunday lunch special is all you can eat, but it is not a buffet.

Unfortunately, this gives the waitstaff complete control over the pace of your eating. You are not allowed to order more food until you have finished everything from your last order.

For those of us who like the old standards (salmon, spicy tuna, etc.) along with some hot foods, Todai is a much better option. For lunch, Miyako costs almost twice as much as the other spots ($25 as opposed to $12 or $16 for Kirin and Todai respectively). The price is, in fact, almost identical to the other two restaurants' dinner buffets, but Miyako does not offer crab legs or seaweed salad, and its selection of hot foods and appetizers is paltry in compared to the competition.

Still, you have your choice of many of Miyako's fancier sushi rolls, and for $25 that's not a bad deal. Further, the freshness and ambiance makes it a much higher-quality sushi experience.

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